Menu

Gagosian Quarterly

September 24, 2021

fashion and Art:sergio Zambon

Designer Sergio Zambon, head of menswear at Moncler, speaks to Wyatt Allgeier about his inspirations and visions for this season’s 2 Moncler 1952 M collection, a project under the Moncler Genius initiative, and his collaboration with artists Andrea Anastasio, Prem Sahib, and Erwin Wurm on a special exhibition of unique artworks—being sold for a good cause—presented in Milan on September 25, 2021, in conjunction with the live digital show “MONDOGENIUS.”

Sergio Zambon, 2021

Sergio Zambon, 2021

Wyatt Allgeier

Wyatt Allgeier is a writer and an editor for the Gagosian Quarterly. He lives and works in New York City.

See all Articles

Wyatt AllgeierSergio, when did art and design become key aspects of your life?

Sergio ZambonI was always interested in the creative processes that went into projects of any kind. I’ve specifically been interested in art since high school. Then I did what we call in Italy liceo artistico (art high school). I remember being obsessed at the time with Andy Warhol and Victor Vasarely, with Pop art and Op art.

But what I was really obsessed with was the process of doing a project in general. My first interest was in architecture and urban planning. I studied architecture at the University of Rome for a year, before I left for design school in Milan and Rome.

In all of my creative endeavors, contemporary art has always been a reference. But before now I never really looked at it explicitly in those terms; I just continued following this interest while growing in my studies and in my work.

WAWould you say collaboration is part of the draw, the appeal of a project for you?

SZOh, yes. I think nowadays, especially in the way I work, collaboration brings strength to a project. I start from a vision and then I go into the details and the layers of reference, which can be as diverse as climatology and industrial design. When people bring different, even opposite, references and styles to a project, it becomes very rich.

Collaborating, for me, is kind of a natural thing. When I was at Fendi menswear and at Acne Studios, I worked with different graphic artists. And then here at Moncler is where I really developed the collaboration concept: from the start, I collaborated with graphic artists and brands, and then after two seasons I launched the first Moncler Genius collection and developed this formula of collaborating with different cities through brands or creative individuals.

I have a little list now of brands and graphic artists I’ve worked with. For example, one graphic artist I’ve collaborated with is Fergus Purcell. The brands I’ve collaborated with include And Wander, Awake, Undefeated.

The Moncler Genius project I’m doing now is called 2 Moncler 1952 M, and it’s a collection of thirty-five outfits.

Fashion and Art: Sergio Zambon

Erwin Wurm, Almost a Perfect Day, 2021 © Erwin Wurm

WASo this current iteration of Moncler Genius 1952 M includes a collaboration with Andrea Anastasio, Erwin Wurm, and Prem Sahib. How did you learn about these artists and what about their work drew you to them?

SZWell, as my interest is in contemporary art, this season I wanted to do an event for Moncler that’s similar, without being too pretentious, to a Venice Biennale installation—more than a fashion presentation. So I looked at artists I know or I like and who, in a way, already have something linked with the world of Moncler. I chose these three artists for a reason: they all visually have something related to the styles of Moncler. The idea was for them to use the colors and fabrics of Moncler as the building blocks for new works. In fact, Prem used a jacket from the 2 Moncler 1952 M collection, which will be included in his pieces. All of the fabrics and the colors used by Andrea were chosen from the current collection. With Erwin, the color of his work comes from a pink Moncler puffer jacket, and he additionally shot some of his iconic pictures with the collection.

Fashion and Art: Sergio Zambon

Prem Sahib, Puffer Table, 2021 © Prem Sahib

WACould you describe how they are going to be presented?

SZThe one-day exhibition, titled Instant Message, is going to be presented at Stazione Centrale, which is a place I like very much in Milan. It’s imbued with this sense of taste from the 1930s. It’s huge and has frescoes, and the work will be exhibited in a very clean, minimal atmosphere. Each artist will have their own space.

WAAnd then the artworks themselves are going to be sold, I understand, with the proceeds going to the organization The Film Path?

SZYes. A friend of mine, a costume designer in LA, founded this association, which works to set in motion equity, inclusion, and empowerment for Black, indigenous, people of color, and transgender crew members in the film industry. This mission was very close to me in every sense, and it felt natural for Moncler to support them.

Fashion and Art: Sergio Zambon

Andrea Anastasio, Alta Quota, 2021 © Andrea Anastasio

WAIs there anything you can reveal about what the three artists are making, or is that still secret?

SZOh, no, I can’t reveal more [laughs]! Well, maybe a little . . . Prem’s work, Puffer Table, is about minimal design and clubbing. He designed three desks. Each one is in glass and under it, there is a signature Moncler duvet down jacket, which is kind of the base of the desk. So it’s a reinterpretation of the Allen Jones desk in a very outerwear, sports-y way.

For a work called Alta Quota, Andrea did a series of vases with metallic finishing bound by mountaineering cords, which are similar to a style of jacket I made with tracking cords. And then he crafted another set of furniture pieces, which are from his series called Pillow. There are benches and stools with cushions of different Moncler fabrics and colors.

Erwin creates kind of exploded, padded cars. He will present one of them, Fat Mini, the English car, in the playful pink Moncler puffer fabric I mentioned, as well as a couple of pictures paired with the collection.

WAIt sounds incredible. A whole car?

SZYes.

WA[Laughs] That’s crazy. Fantastic.

Fashion and Art: Sergio Zambon

Erwin Wurm, Fat Mini, 2021 © Erwin Wurm

Photos: courtesy Moncler

Rick Lowe painting in his studio.

Behind the Art
Rick Lowe: In the Studio

Join Rick Lowe in his Houston studio as he speaks about his recent paintings, describing their connections to his long engagement with the activity of dominoes and to his community-based projects created in the tradition of social sculpture.

Damien Hirst's Reclining Woman on the cover of Gagosian Quarterly, Fall 2021

Now available
Gagosian Quarterly Fall 2021

The Fall 2021 issue of Gagosian Quarterly is now available, featuring Damien Hirst’s Reclining Woman (2011) on its cover.

Georg Baselitz working on Madame Demoisielle weit weg von der Küste (Madame Demoiselle a long way from the coast)

Georg Baselitz: Pulling Up the Image

In celebration of five recent projects related to Georg Baselitz, Richard Calvocoressi, Max Hollein, and Katy Siegel speak with the artist and look at his prolific career.

Rachelle Mozman Solano, Las Damas, 2010, chromogenic print,

The Destination Is Latinx

Susan Breyer surveys the dynamic state of contemporary Latinx art in the United States. Highlighting seven artists who are rewriting cultural narratives, Breyer calls for sustained attention to this growing group beyond National Hispanic Heritage Month.

Tatiana Trouvé in her Paris studio.

Behind the Art
Tatiana Trouvé: In the Studio

Join the artist in her studio as she speaks about her new series of drawings, From March to May. Trouvé describes the genesis of the project and the essential role its creation played in keeping her connected with the outside world during the difficult months of pandemic-related lockdown.

Kon Trubkovich in his studio, Brooklyn, New York, 2021.

Kon Trubkovich

Historian Victoria Phillips speaks with the artist about his new paintings, memory and its relationship to media, and the continuing impact of the Cold War.

Installation view of Urs Fischer’s Untitled (2011) in the exhibition Ouverture, Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Paris, 2021. Artwork © Urs Fischer, courtesy Galerie Eva Presenhuber, Zurich; Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection © Tadao Ando Architect & Associates, Niney et Marca Architectes, Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier. Photo: Stefan Altenburger

Bourse de Commerce

William Middleton traces the development of the new institution, examining the collaboration between the collector François Pinault and the architect Tadao Ando in revitalizing the historic space. Middleton also speaks with artists Tatiana Trouvé and Albert Oehlen about Pinault’s passion as a collector, and with the Bouroullec brothers, who created design features for the interiors and exteriors of the museum.

Anna Halprin in The Prophetess, 1955.

Game Changer
Anna Halprin

Jacquelynn Baas celebrates the choreographer, dancer, and teacher, tracing the profound influence she had on the worlds of dance and art.

Katy Hessel, Matthew Holman, and Eleanor Nairne

In Conversation
Katy Hessel, Matthew Holman, and Eleanor Nairne on Helen Frankenthaler

Broadcaster and art historian Katy Hessel; Matthew Holman, associate lecturer in English at University College London; and Eleanor Nairne, curator at the Barbican Art Gallery, London, discuss Helen Frankenthaler’s early training, the development of her signature soak-stain technique and subsequent shifts in style, and her connections to the London art world.

Diego Rivera, The Making of a Fresco Showing the Building of a City, installation view, San Francisco Art Institute (SFAI)

The San Francisco Art Institute: Its History and Future

Constance Lewallen marks the 150th anniversary of the San Francisco Art Institute, exploring the school’s evolution and pioneering faculty, as well as current challenges and the innovations necessary for its preservation.

Markuskyrkan (St. Mark’s Church), Björkhagen, Sweden, 1956–60.

Sigurd Lewerentz

On the occasion of the exhibition Sigurd Lewerentz: Architect of Death and Life at ArkDes, Stockholm, Mark Francis speaks with Kieran Long, Adam Caruso, and Anna Nittve about the enduring legacy of Lewerentz and the singular qualities of the revered architect and his work.

Galerie Patrick Seguin, Paris

Patrick Seguin

Andisheh Avini speaks with the Paris gallerist and publisher about his passion for architecture, design, and art.