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Gagosian Quarterly

April 26, 2023

Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

This year’s Salone del Mobile Milano brought together a wide range of installations, debuts, and collaborations from across the worlds of design, fashion, and architecture. We present a selection of these projects.

Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Vieni a vedere, Bottega Veneta’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

In Milan this year, Bottega Veneta collaborated with architect/designer/artist Gaetano Pesce to create the unique installation Vieni a vedere. Pesce utilized resin and fabric to form a narrow, cave-like structure, inside which visitors discovered Bottega Veneta’s signature Intrecciato handbag reimagined by the artist. Inspired by the mountains and prairies of Pesce’s past and present, each bag was individually painted with an airbrush technique to resemble a landscape in the artist’s life.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Echoes: 50 Years of iMaestri, Cassina’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Cassina

Cassina

For their Milan presentation, titled Echoes: 50 Years of iMaestri, Cassina brought in art director Patricia Urquiola with Federica Sala to curate a historical exhibition dedicated to the industrial development and design processes of some of Cassina’s most iconic pieces. Presented at Palazzo Broggi, Echoes: 50 Years of iMaestri was divided into five sections, mirroring the five chapters of the forthcoming book of the same title from Rizzoli, and unified through the use of the distinctive red of Cassina’s brand. The exhibition included historic pieces like Charlotte Perriand’s Banquette méandre, which Cassina reconstructed in 2012 for the Perriand retrospective at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

The Scoora lantern, designed by Hoffmann Kahleyss Design, introduced by Dedon during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photo: courtesy Dedon

Dedon

Founded in 1990, Dedon has maintained a commitment to collaboration as the beating heart of their engagement with furniture and design. During Salone, Dedon introduced their 2023 “novelties” in an exhibition entitled Spirit of Design: Inspired by Nature in Milan’s Garden Senato. Focusing on new fiber technologies, the presentation included the Scoora lantern by Hoffmann Kahleyss Design, the Cirql Nu chair by Werner Aisslinger, the Eqlips screen by Henrik Pedersen, the Papyon chair by Arnd Küchel, the Kida chair by Stephen Burks, the Leaf beach chair by Frank Ligthart, and the Ombii lamp by Dedon Studio.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Dior by Starck, Dior’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Dior

Dior

Dior by Starck is a collaboration between Dior Maison and Philippe Starck. For their first project together, in 2022, the French designer worked with the fashion house to create the Miss Dior armchair. This year, during Salone, Dior by Starck debuted its sibling, Monsieur Dior, the next chapter in the evolution of the Louis XVI medallion chair—a Dior icon since 1947. Starck sees the two designs as the balance of “masculinity and femininity . . . gravity and levity.” These qualities were on display at the Palazzo Citterio through a video and musical installation by Soundwalk Collective, as well as sculptural presentations of the chairs on platforms and suspensions.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Thinking Design, Making Design: Type-V Nature Architects Project, Issey Miyake’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

In Milan, Issey Miyake presented Thinking Design, Making Design: Type-V Nature Architects Project, showcasing A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake’s latest collaborative project with the spin-off engineering design company Nature Architects that looks at design’s role in structure, materiality, and production. The exhibition featured prototypes of jackets, dresses, and furniture pieces, all made from one piece of fabric through A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake’s original “steam-stretch” technology.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Photos: courtesy Ligne Roset

Ligne Roset

Ligne Roset introduced their new collection during Salone, with an exhibition entitled Chiaroscuro. Designed by the company’s interior architect, Aurélie Rebmann, the exhibition showcased a range of tables, seats, and shelves by designers including Marie Christine Dorner, Michel Ducaroy, Philippe Nigro, and Christian Werner. The collection’s materials span marble, brass, dark walnut, and foam cushions blending diverse colors and styles to propose new interpretations of historic designs.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Loewe Chairs, Loewe’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Loewe

Loewe

In the courtyard of Palazzo Isimbardi, Loewe showcased the protagonist of its latest project, the humble chair. Loewe Chairs brought in artisans to reimagine what once were considered rustic objects and transform them into colorful and whimsical one-of-a-kind items. The presentation included thirty stick chairs, both antique and newly crafted by British firm Westonbirt Woodworks, and eight paper loom chairs created by Belgian company Vincent Sheppard, all embellished with a different weaving technique, in various materials such as leather, raffia, shearling, and felt, among others.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Cabinet of Curiosities, Louis Vuitton’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Continuing their long-standing partnership, Louis Vuitton and Marc Newson collaborated to present the Cabinet of Curiosities. Newson’s reworking of the quintessential Vuitton travel trunk utilizes leather-covered cubes in three sizes to transform this iconic piece into a new field of use and design.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Molteni & C’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Molteni & C

Molteni & C

For Milan Design Week, Molteni & C and the brand’s creative director, Vincent Van Duysen, invited visitors to experience the company’s production center and pavilion in Giussano. There, guests could view new designs—including the Mateo table by Van Duysen and the Tuscany chaise longue by Naoto Fukasawa—against the backdrop of artist Roberto Ruspoli’s mural Virgilio’s Dream. The surrounding grounds and courtyard, drawing from the ancient Roman domus, elucidated the connections of indoor and outdoor, private and public space.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Poikilos: New forms of iridescence, a show by Objects of Common Interest at Nilufar Depot, curated by Studio Vedèt. Photos: courtesy Nilufar

Nilufar

Throughout Nilufar Gallery’s spaces sprawled The Bright Side of Design, an exhibition of old masters and contemporary creators. From Osvaldo Borsani’s twentieth-century modernism to Draga & Aurel’s futurist Space Couture presentation, Nilufar Gallery’s selection looked both backward and forward. Taking the intergalactic to the fantastic, the presentation also included the site-specific installation Poikilos, on the themes of light and magic.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Perceptions, Poliform’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Poliform

Poliform

In the courtyard of Milan’s San Simpliciano cloisters, Poliform debuted their new collection of outdoor furniture. The presentation, entitled Perceptions, sought to enrich discourses around design’s relationship with ecology through new work by designers such as Emmanuel Gallina, Jean-Marie Massaud, Soo Chan, and Marcel Wanders. The installation featured a symphony composed by Caterina Barbieri, lending the collection a sonic element.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Prada Frames symposium during Salone del Mobile Milano 2023. Photos: courtesy Prada

Prada

Held at Teatro Filodrammatici, this year’s Prada Frames symposium investigated the theme Materials in FluxInspired by the research of British anthropologist Tim Ingold, who views materials as interconnected, endlessly changing living entities, the conversations centered on Prada’s exploration of opportunities for low-impact production using innovative materials. The symposium’s aim was to explore the concept of waste, investigate the dynamics that regulate waste infrastructure and their value systems, and analyze the complex relations between materials and ecosystems. The program brought together scholars and professionals from various fields of research, including Beatriz Colomina, Sophie Chao, Tim Ingold, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Elizabeth Povinelli, and Mark Wigley.


Highlights: Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

BomBom Outdoor, Roche Bobois’s presentation during Salone del Mobile Milano, 2023. Photos: courtesy Roche Bobois

Roche Bobois

Debuting their new collaboration with artist Joana Vasconcelos, Roche Bobois presented BomBom Outdoor during this year’s Salone. Based in Lisbon, Vasconcelos has exhibited her artwork internationally, primarily utilizing textiles in her sculptural interventions. Her singular aesthetic served as the launching pad for these fluid, organically shaped sofas, rugs, and cushions, all designed for outdoor use. Inspired by the colorway of Lisbon’s Old Town, a combination of pastels and sunset tones bring the artist’s and Roche Bobois’s DNA to a surreal, eye-catching collection.

Chris Eitel in the Kagan Design Group workshop

Vladimir Kagan’s First Collection: An Interview with Chris Eitel

Chris Eitel, Vladimir Kagan’s protégé and the current director of design and production at Vladimir Kagan Design Group, invited the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier to the brand’s studio in New Jersey, where the two discussed the forthcoming release of the First Collection. The series, now available through holly hunt, reintroduces the first chair and table that Kagan ever designed—part of Eitel’s efforts to honor the furniture avant-gardist’s legacy while carrying the company into the future.

Portrait of Pierre Mahéo

Officine Générale: Pierre Mahéo

In October 2023, Officine Générale, the Paris-based brand of elegantly crafted, understated menswear and womenswear, opened its newest store on Madison Avenue in New York. Pierre Mahéo, the brand’s founder and creative director, met with the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier at this location to discuss the evolution and consistency of his process, the influence of modernists like Charlotte Perriand, and what’s next for the brand.

Assemblage’s Basho Leaf wallcovering

Assemblage: Heidi and Christian Batteau

Wife-and-husband team Heidi and Christian Batteau launched their bespoke wallcovering company, Assemblage, in 2013. Building on their educations in fine art and working alongside a studio of exceptional artisans, the couple has steadily grown their award-winning, museum-collected creations from their repurposed seed mill in Arkansas. Here, they speak with the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier about their inspirations, their techniques, and their partnership with Holly Hunt throughout the United States and Europe. 

Graffiti artists Faust and Vexta painting a wall

FAUST and Vexta: Nonconformism

Launched during NYC×DESIGN week in New York earlier this year, a new mural by celebrated artists FAUST and Vexta was painted on the wall of Ligne Roset’s New York flagship store on Park Avenue South. Utilizing each of their distinctive styles, the two painters collaborated to celebrate the message of nonconformism as part of the fiftieth anniversary of the Togo, Ligne Roset’s iconic furniture design. Here, the artists talk to the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier about their aesthetics, scale, and the development of the project.

Christophe Graber in black and white photograph

Christophe Graber

Swiss jeweler Christophe Graber reflects on his influences, the importance of place, and the development of his practice.

The exterior of Lina Bo Bardi’s Casa de Vidro in Sao Paulo Brazil

The Square São Paulo: An Interview with Mari Stockler

Curator and photographer Mari Stockler and Gagosian director Antwaun Sargent met to discuss The Square São Paulo, the third installment of a cultural exchange series established by Bottega Veneta in 2022. Marking the brand’s ten-year anniversary in Brazil, the exhibition and publication project, initiated by Bottega Veneta’s creative director, Matthieu Blazy, and curated by Stockler, took place at Lina Bo Bardi’s legendary Casa de Vidro.

KIOSK, a temporary concept store and café, in Kyoto BAL, Japan

KIOSK: Yoshitaka Haba and Jil Sander

In celebration of the new Jil Sander flagship store in Kyoto BAL, Japan, creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier partnered with Yoshitaka Haba, president of BACH, to create KIOSK, a temporary concept store and café. Offering limited-edition books, magazines, and traditional Japanese stationery, the kiosk invites the public to explore the resonances between the brand’s ethos and the work of writers, poets, and graphic designers.

Portrait of Edward Enninful

Fashion and Art: Edward Enninful

Edward Enninful OBE has held the role of editor-in-chief of British Vogue since 2017. The magazine’s course under his direction has served as a model for what a fashion publication can do in the twenty-first century: in terms of creativity, authenticity, diversity, and engagement with social issues, Enninful has created a new mold. Here, Enninful meets with his longtime friend Derek Blasberg to discuss his recently published memoir, A Visible Man.

Cristián Mohaded’s  "Apacheta" installation for Salone del Mobile Milano 2023

Cristián Mohaded: Apacheta

Argentinian designer and artist Cristián Mohaded has been collaborating with Loro Piana Interiors to produce an installation and collection of furniture pieces inspired by apachetas, piles of stones that mark paths and passes in the Andes. Debuting during Salone del Mobile Milano 2023 inside the Cortile della Seta, at Loro Piana’s Milanese headquarters—where it will be on view from April 20 to 23—the project will encourage visitors to reflect on travel, materiality, and the relationship between humans and the earth. Mohaded met with the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier in the weeks leading up to the unveiling to discuss Apacheta.

Image of model and Poliform couch. Photo: Paolo Roversi

Incontri: Paolo Roversi and Poliform

Poliform, an Italian furniture brand, has launched a communication project called Incontri that aims to broaden the company’s reach to new forms of expression. In the first chapter of the project, Poliform collaborated with Paolo Roversi, a renowned contemporary photographer, to create a series of photographs showcasing the souls of both design objects and human subjects. Here, Poliform CEO Giovanni Anzani speaks with the Quarterly’s Wyatt Allgeier about the partnership.

The brewing process at IWA Sake, Shiraiwa kura, Japan, 2021. Photo: Nao Tsuda, courtesy IWA Sake

Iwa Sake and Kura

As part of the artist’s guest-edited special section for the Spring 2023 issue of the Quarterly, Marc Newson reflects with IWA Sake founder Richard Geoffroy and architect Kengo Kuma on their respective contributions to IWA Sake in Japan: bottle, brewing, and building. The sake brewery, or kura in Japanese, takes its name from its site of Shiraiwa, located in the town of Tateyama.

Karl Lagefeld in front of a blue background. Photo: Roe Ethridge

The Art of Biography: Paradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld

William Middleton’s forthcoming biography of Karl Lagerfeld, Paradise Now, comes as a major follow-up to his lauded history of Dominique and John de Menil, Double Vision, from 2018. Here, curator Michael Cary speaks with Middleton about the challenges, strategies, and revelations that went into telling the story of this larger-than-life visionary in the world of fashion and the culture at large.